I’m exploring the West Coast of Vancouver Island from Port Renfrew to Bamfield on my BMW GS motorcycle. Along the way I eat some really good food, see more bears, meet local riders and find a little bit of peace by the ocean.
Riding Solo | AZ to BC | Episode 12
Details
- Distance: 115 miles
- Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
- Start: Port Renfrew, British Columbia
- End: Bamfield, British Columbia
- Roads: Gordon River Road, South Shore Road
- Conditions: pavement, dirt logging roads
- Cities: Port Renfrew, Bamfield
- Camping: Pachena Bay Campground
Waking up in my tent in a forest on Vancouver Island. I’m eager to begin riding and exploring this part of the northwest.
The Pacific Ocean is never far away when you are riding a motorcycle on Vancouver Island. This is the beach just a few dozen yards away from where I pitched my tent. There were bears in the campground last night and people were banging pots and pans trying to scare them away.
I rode past the Port Renfrew Marina to Snuggery Cover and parked my motorcycle next to a totem pole next to the ocean.
The Renfrew Pub is located here, along with seaside cottages, whale watching tours, fishing boats, tourists and an artist creating a picture of the small harbor.
I stopped for breakfast at the Coastal Kitchen Cafe. The egg & bagel sandwich I and proper cappuccino was a real treat for this motorcycle camper.
I crossed the Gordon River a few miles outside of town and began traveling though the Vancouver Island backcountry on the forest roads. If you have more time than I did on this journey you might look into exploring Avatar Grove in the area to see some ancient forests.
I met a couple of new adventure riders that seemed to be having a lot of fun. They live in Victoria and were riding on the backroads like myself. One of them said “You’re not learning if your’e not falling over.” I told him that I was still learning.
With sunshine on my face and the salty smell of the ocean in the air I’m riding past Lake Cowichan and Nitinaht Lake. Kite-boarders are enjoying the summer weather as I make my way out to the Nitinaht Lake Gas Station for lunch.
This is a “bear-banger” firework designed to scare away bears. It doesn’t seem to work as the bear in question rummages through a nearby dumpster.
Bamfield is located midway up the southern west coast of Vancouver Island. I’ve heard good things about the little town from friends who have been there and decided to spend the night here.
Bamfield is a small and remote community with a friendly pub, a food market and café on the east side of the inlet. I’ll explore the west side and the boardwalk tomorrow.
I seem to be having a problem finding the road to the campground until this friendly local points me in the right direction.
My riding goals accomplished for the day I brew a cup of mint tea and spend the evening in a camping chair looking out at the ocean. It’s important to have these quiet moments of reflection on a long trip like this.
